Chinese New Year 2009

It was fortunate that the height of the Chinese New Year celebrations were not spoiled by the onslaught of snow that hit London later that same night. The air was bitterly cold and it began to snow in sporadic sessions here and there, but it was not enough to cripple the celebrations as yet. Gerard St in London's Chinatown was packed with revellers, all with cameras at the ready. I never felt so less out of place with my camera in hand and it was more a question of who didn't have their camera than who did.

Here's a few pics of what went down that day:

Dragon's Beard candy in the making. It can be likened in texture to Fairy Floss (Cotton Candy) or Pashmak, a confection that is traditionally made using honey and rock sugar. There were two of these stalls demonstrating how apparently easy it was to make the candy. A little rolling, a little rubbing, then some pulling and a little slight of hand and there you have yourself some Dragon's Beard candy. It was like a magic trick. They were selling them for £3 per box.

A familiar sight at any Chinatown you go to are the ducks hanging from the restaurant windows inviting hungry passer-bys into the shop. Sweet buns were also selling fast.

It started snowing quite quickly, but disappeared as fast as it appeared. It later turned into the infamous snowfall that crippled London the next day.

As you can see, it was blaringly obvious everywhere you went what year it was on the Chinese zodiac, the year of the Ox. This man was getting really into character.

Everyone followed the beat of the drum and the dance of the dragon as it made its way through the streets and warded off evil spirits as it is fabled to do.

Chinatown became a sea of red, as lanterns floated above you along the laneways. And trinkets for good luck hanged across each stall goading children and adults alike.

Snow Day

Last Monday, most of Britain was covered in what has been touted as the heaviest snowfall in 20 years. Most of the London public transport ground to a halt, as it's already fragile transport system couldn't cope with what they claimed were "adverse weather conditions", even though Paris and Italy, who were hit with the same amount of snow didn't even bat an eyelid. It's amazing that such a progressive city like London can be halted by a foot of snow, especially when so many other places seem to manage just fine despite getting larger snowfalls than we do here.

But what these supposed adverse weather conditions did bring was a chance for most of Britain to have the day off work and school. All my routes to work had been suspended by the morning and even if I had decided to hoof it work, I wasn't sure how I was going to make it back home in one piece. And I already had a slight taste of the temperamental nature of the London tubes, especially the District Line, when trains were delayed because of leaves on the track! Not sure what kind of leaves these were, but I was envisioning giant killer leaves with sharp tendrils and a cantankerous disposition. So the only thing left to do that day was to call it a snow day and make the most out of London being turned into a winter wonderland.

So we trudged out into the white expanse and made a snowman, got into a few few snow fights and most of all just frolicked like we were 10 again. There's nothing like snow to bring the kid out of anyone. People were out and about despite the cold, strangers were smiling and talking to each other, which in a city, is almost as rare as the abominable snowman, and people were snapping away at every possible angle like giddy tourists. When you see normally nonchalant Londoners taking photos, then you know this isn't something that happens everyday.

Rhodes Bakery

A not so recent excursion out to Greenwich– and I say excursion because the Jubilee line was closed and it took us two interchanges and a bus ride to get there– brought us, through sheer providence to a corner bakery that you could almost pass by unaware if not for the large array of sourdoughs and artisan breads in the window.

Inside you will find shelves stacked with loaves to the tune of granary bloomer, seeded farmhouse and spelt with apple and cider. Along the front window you will also find a small drum of olive oil that you can fill up your own bottles with. Splendid! Then there's a tower of scones sitting atop a glass cabinet and brownies and coconut macaroons on a side table, out in the open and within arm's reach of any swindling fingers to swipe. Restraint is of the utmost while standing near this table. And behind the glass counter are a boastful display of sandwiches, pastries and cakes, whether you're feeling like something sweet or savoury.

The shop is quite narrow, so there really isn't much room for umm-ing and ahh-ing about whether you should get the pain au chocolate or strawberry tart. Or even if you are contemplating eating in or taking out as there isn't much in terms of seating. And if you do find yourself waffling between snacks, you will end up doing cha-cha moves, stepping back and forth letting more decisive customers pass in front of you. The place looks like it's busy most of the time.

I was yearning for a little bit of cream tea, although they had run out of clotted cream, so that was out of the question. I don't know how I can go back to normal cream with scones when I've tasted the hedonistic delights of pure-fat heaven that is clotted cream. If not for a little bit of tact while in public, I could well be seen eating that stuff out of a tub as if it were ice cream. So instead I decided for something completely different and had the goat's cheese, spinach and tomato tart. And you might be asking why no picture? Well, I scoffed the thing into oblivion even before my other hand could reach into my bag and grab the camera. It was good, and I was hungry.

So if you ever find yourself in the south east of London, check out this small but formidable bakery. They also have a stall at the Borough Markets if Greenwich is a little bit of hike to get to. They pride themselves in "real" bread and it shows, their repertoire for artisan breads from around the world is quite impressive, from German sourdoughs to Norwegian Northlands cake, which I have yet to try.

And if you, like me, were thinking Gary Rhodes– he was the first Rhodes that came to mind– then you are mistaken. It's actually Michelin-star chef Paul Rhodes who was the brainchild of this bakery that started in 2003 right in Greenwich. So it was an obvious choice to make their flagship store right there.



Rhodes Bakery
37 King William Walk
Greenwich
London SE10 9HU
PHONE: 020 8858 8995

Gail's Garden Party, Hampstead

The invitation's a little smudged but you get the gist. Just follow the smell of baking bread.

Can a garden party without an actual garden, in fact be called a garden party? Well, I'm not sure if the small patch of grass along the laneway where the Gail's Bakery party took place could be considered a garden but nonetheless, the amount of cakes and pastries made up for the lack of greenery. Gail's Garden Party, held annually in Hampstead was every carb lover's dream, with enough cakes, sandwiches, breads and sweets to make your blood sugar curdle.

A tower of delight- cannelles, iced lavender and almond cake and some flourless chocolate cakes in the foreground.

There was the chilli chutney stand, Spanish chorizo and exotic sausages and the odd cheese stall peppered throughout, namely the iconic Neal's Yard Dairy, however most of the focus was on Gail's magnificent selection of baked goods. There was more flour and sugar in this one narrow laneway than you could shake a stick at. I was in my element.

Multigrain and artisan loaves; beautifully glazed challah bread; Neal's Yard Dairy stall; blue vein cheese.

Precision slicing of jamon; panini central; chorizo picante for those who like it hot; stuffed green olives wrapped in sardines.

Slices, muffins and bread sticks, all part of the enticing window display at Gail's Hampstead; orange and poppyseed cakes; classic carrot cake; pistachio filled meringue.

With a grin from ear to ear I made my way through stall after stall of goodies to ease that grumbling tummy. After a sun-dried tomato sandwich and some cheese, I decided on some iced lavender and almond cakes and a couple of incredibly beautiful cannelles- my new vice.

Front counter goodies- iced lavender and almond cakes, beautifully moist and aromatic.

I have never come across cannelles being sold at bakeries in Sydney, so seeing so many around and about London really is a novelty. My first taste were at the Borough Markets, 3 cannelles for a pound; they were delicious, a little chewy, but for my first ever cannelles I didn't know what to expect. The cannelles at Gail's were a little bit more spongey and light, less chewy and more airy. So I'm not sure which one is more authentic, or whether they are both, all I know is I'm happy to be polishing off either one right now.

Gail's cannelles were soft, light and airy, and not to mention incredibly moreish.




It's not a party without a bit of booze, wild boar salchichon; cookies, pastries and quiches at the outdoor Gail's stand; German sausage sizzle.

Gail's Bakery Hampstead
64 Hampstead High St
London NW3 1QH
Phone: 020 7794 5700
Email: hampstead@gailsbread.co.uk


Gail's Bakery Notting Hill
138 Portobello Rd
London W11 2DZ
Phone: 020 7460 0766
Email: portobello@gailsbread.co.uk

Gail's Bakery St John's Wood

5 Circus Rd

London NW8 6NX

Phone: 020 7722 0983

Southbank Food Festival: Slow Food London

It seems that I have fortuitously stumbled upon a glut of food festivals here in London of late, and I'm not complaining. I'm welcoming any opportunity to eat well and see London at the same time, and it appears to me that the food culture here is as lively as I had imagined.

And what shall I say about the weather? Even though today, London is at its typically rainy best, the past few days and weekends have been gloriously warm and sunny. I was quite the cynic and had scoffed incredulously at the prediction of sunshine and warm weather in the last few days, although have since been eating my words. An Indian summer seems like the perfect primer before the cold snap hits.

Weather aside, the Southbank Food Festival was held a couple of weeks ago although it's taken me some time to actually get my act together to write up a post. What's new- procrastination, it's the underlying motif of the blog. So, the Southbank Food Festival was an understated 3-day celebration of the Slow Food London movement, that championed the principles of sustainable living and farming, and basically sought to enlighten and challenge people to think more about the food they were eating.

There were about 40 different stalls set up around the Southbank, by the Thames, and there was a tent dedicated to cooking demonstrations throughout the day teaching people stuff like how to feed your family for under a fiver (£5) and how we can all use sustainable products more. My most favourite demo of course was by the lady who owned Choc Star who showed us how to make a chocolate, almond and orange terrine. The best part of the demo was of course the end, where we all got to have a taste.

As fast food encroaches upon most of eating habits it was more than encouraging to know that there is a movement to counter the insidious thing that fast food is doing to the culture of eating, farming and mostly our health. That's why farmer's markets are so great, you can meet and actually get to know the people rearing the animals and growing the vegetables that you are eating, and you know the food isn't stuffed with nasty hormones and preservatives that will one day turn you into a mutant.

So here are a few snaps of day 2 of the Southbank Festival. My recollection of the actual stalls are getting a bit foggy but I'll try my best to give you at least, somewhat vague descriptions.

Different varieties of apples from Franklins Food Emporium in Kenington; can't resist a cupcake shot wherever I go, can I? Beautiful pot of flowers, mushroom medley frying in a large pan.


Middle eastern spices and sauces; almond semolina mini cakes, simply divine; cheese, cheese and more cheese!


Slow food stall; cross-section of salami; hard cheeses.


One of my favourite stalls, Choc Star, the home of the most decadent chocolate terrine made with Valrhona chocolate, the van travels around the United Kingdom sharing the joys of eating chocolate with people, look out for the van it could be coming to your town; some sourdough breads.


The tiniest cafe I've seen, a quarter of the London Eye; espresso drip; beautiful crusty bread.


Artists making their mark on the pavement; French cheeses along the Thames sunset; frying up some Churros.


Crates of organic Worcester apples; squash to brighten up your day; more crates of apples; organic sparkling apple juice.


Artwork around the Southbank.


Textures and patterns around the Southbank; Rabbit pasta.

More Markets

Borough Markets, London; cherries; yes indeed you are looking at a shark; an open bowl of truffles, the temptation!

As promised here are the rest of the photos from London's renowned Borough Market's. There's a lot of things to catch your eye and it is quite simply a feast for the senses. As some of you have commented, these markets are a little pricey, but the great thing is, it doesn't cost anything to look around and try a few samples. Perfect snacking for poor tourists.

Aside from the markets, there are a few cafes and shops just on its outskirts that are worth a look. I didn't really get a good chance to have a proper gander through them all but we did happen to stumble across a great little coffee shop called Monmouth Coffee.

It's quite a rustic little cafe with a wooden communal table filled with all manner of bread, jams and breakfast condiments and an array of pastries on a adjacent table. The coffee was fairly cheap, about £2 and I don't normally drink coffee, as I'm caffeine sensitive, but GT seemed to give it two great big thumbs up. You know the kind that comes with a cheesy grin. Considering I didn't writhe in disgust as I normally do when I have coffee that's been burned, this place is a absolute winner. And if the queue is any indication of how good the coffee is, well, the line snakes all the way outside and around the corner in the mornings, so be prepared to wait for good coffee. But the great thing is that they are quite efficient and you actually don't wait for too long. Let's just say it's a welcome departure from the ubiquitous franchise coffee shops that seem to overrun London. We did also have the chocolate truffles from Monmouth, wow were they incredible.

Aside from Monmouth, the equally famed Neal's Yard Dairy is just around the corner from the cafe and it is definitely worth going into the shop. From what I have read it seems like Neal's Yard was started by the same people responsible for Monmouth, so you know that the have a deep affinity with food and are interest in making good food.

Berries were the flavour of the month and in every corner you look there they were, here are blackberries, blueberries and redcurrants; and more mushies


Fresh food is always plentiful at BM, fresh snapper, artichokes, and all manner of green beans; also an interesting find at the beer place- black chocolate stout


Nuts and dried fruit; dried chillies hanging at the Spanish shop; cute Scottish dog; Beef bourguignon


All flavours of focaccia; French charcuterie display; shortbread owls; and yet again more mushrooms, this time Giroles from Poland for £10


Yes, I do love taking photographs of mushrooms, here are some oyster mushies; L'Aventure lets you fill empty bottles with your choice of wine or olive oils, I can't actually remember; more mushrooms and more sausages


Striking aubergine-coloured artichokes; turkish delights and a box of lavender

Well I hope this trip to markets has been a satisfying peek into the food culture of London. Much like you, I'm just discovering it for myself. I have noticed in general that Londoners love their sandwiches. I've never been anywhere, where there a several pre-made sandwich bars all metres away from each other. I guess the convenience is the main attraction, especially for those who have tight lunch breaks. But I must admit although sandwiches to me are a little blah, they are a much better and healthier option than say, Burger King or McDonald's if you need something in a hurry.

So that's all for now, I have a whole stack of dishes I made in Sydney that I haven't had time to post, so there's no doubt you will be seeing them in the next few weeks.

New town, new look

Bet you were wondering if I actually got to London did you? Yes, I did arrive safely and surprisingly not at all jet-lagged. I must attribute the lack of jet-lag to the many years of doing shift work, I've been able to throw my body clock out the window, and who needs one anyway it never did me any good.

Aside from wondering where this blogger has been for the last couple of weeks, you will probably be wondering why this blog has been left in a state of limbo. Well to be frank, I haven't felt like blogging since I got to London. Actually I haven't felt like doing a lot of the things I am normally in the habit of doing back in Sydney. Take one for example of my many vices- sleeping in, well I haven't had a sleep in since I got here and it's not because I have a job to go to, it's because I instinctively get up at around 8 am every morning. It's quite peculiar seeing as snoozing until just before midday was my thing, it was the thing I was known for and the thing that made me, me. So what's happened to me?

Cheery red vine tomatoes, gigantic wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano and lots of artisan breads

Being in this (northern) hemisphere must have turned things upside down as I also don't get my usual cravings for sugar. Now I'm all about savoury things, that's all I want to eat. Which isn't such a bad thing when there's always lots of beer to wash down the food, but when I walk by glass casements filled with beautiful pastries, my heart skips a beat but my stomach doesn't even jump.

In order to somewhat alleviate this effect from the change of hemisphere, we decided to head down to the famed Borough Markets just south east of London. The great thing about these markets is that it's open Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, and unlike the Grower's Market in Sydney, which is once a month and starts at the crack of dawn, the earliest it opens on a Saturday is 9 am, which in my opinion is a much more reasonable hour and goes on until 4pm. So there's plenty of time to sleep in on a Saturday and turn up around midday for some lunch.

I won't go into too much detail about the markets as I think the photographs tell a better story, but I will say one thing, I do love a market that has a stall with every type of beer imaginable. Mmmmmm, although didn't find any Duff Beer.

Richard Howard Oysters, gigantic oysters and clams with a splash of lemon juice and red wine vinaigrette for £1.70 each. GT gulped them down too quickly for me to take a photo but apparently were very delicious, although it took a while to get the fishy taste out of his mouth.


Had a slight chuckle at the sausages after I was told they were an acquired taste; buckets of olives and a stall selling an array of mushrooms.


I nearly fell over when we came across this stall displaying huge chunks of dark, milk and white chocolate, I tried to sneak in a bite but couldn't muster up the courage; more mushrooms the black ones are trumpettes, and quite the price.


Beautiful bunches of lavender; pumpkins; strawberries and gorgeous Spanish ham hanging from the rafters.


A little laneway to escape the crowds; a leg of pork; to my delight a tower of flourless chocolate cake- they were giving out free samples so I indulged in a couple; this is the stall that sold every kind of beer you can imagine, it's awesome.

So there you have it a little sneak peek into what I have been up to in London for the past two weeks. We did the tourist thing and visit all the attractions, I might post a few of those later on. Stay tuned for part 2 of pictures from Borough Markets, and don't worry I won't take as long as I did before.

And as you might have noticed M&C has a new and slightly improved banner. I thought, since I'm in a new place, the blog needs a new look. Granted the look hasn't changed much, but hey who would ever turn down a make-over? I know Ricki Lake guests that would be banging down doors to get one.

Borough Markets
8 Southwark St
London, SE1 1TL
PHONE: +44 (0) 20 7407 1002

OPENING TIMES
Thursday 11am - 5pm
Friday 12pm - 6pm
Saturday 9am - 4pm

Nearest Tube: London Bridge Station