For the love of buns

A bun so good it deserves to be pictured from all angles. From above, poppy seeds abound.

Many people have their rituals at breakfast, many of them are simple, some eloquent. But when merely getting out of bed is an uphill struggle, morning rituals are the last thing on my mind. I usually falter out of bed after a short wrestle with my doona, then sleepily make my way to the kitchen, stare blankly into the refrigerator for a few minutes, close it, then open it again, find nothing and then just stand in the middle of my kitchen for a really long time. That’s probably as ritualistic as I get. I have never been one of those people that leap out of bed bright-eyed and primed for the day, I am usually barely-conscious and half-baked. A friend says she usually needs her 8 hours of sleep to function properly, I honestly think I need at least 13 hours to even be close to fully operational. But the chances of this actually happening are slim, very slim.

When it comes to the perfect breakfast, many times the busy life causes us to neglect it. I really do love breakfast as a meal but I rarely have time to sit down and actually enjoy it. Many a morning is spent hastily slopping some yoghurt into a bowl and eating it while getting dressed. It has come to a point that when we want a decent breakfast we are forced to go out and actually find it. We’ve gone out on many breakfast dates, or in my case brunch but rarely do we ever get to indulge in great breakfasts when at home. And really, it’s a shame that we can seldom enjoy breakfast in our own home. But I guess that is what weekend mornings are for, they allow us to recapture the breakfast that eluded us during the weekday.

The bun unravelled; flecked with poppy seeds.

Well this brings me to Bowan Island Bakery and Café. I have always passed this bakery on my way to the weekend markets and have heard plenty of good things about it, but never stopped in to see for myself. When I did decide to make a quick visit, it was a sweet surprise. The café sits along the uninspiring stretch of Victoria Road in Drummoyne, although when inside it feels completely removed from the bustling city outside. Inside, the café feels like a small town bakery somewhere in the Irish countryside; although it was actually Vancouver that inspired the founders of Bowan Island Bakery into bread making. Bowen Island itself is situated off the coast of West Vancouver and after learning the art of sourdough during their visit, David Cummings and partner Richard Wong decided to start the Bowan Island Bakery here in Sydney. The great thing about Bowan Island is that they hold fast to traditional bread making practises; there are no machines, no preservatives, everything is made by hand using a 60-year–old culture.

Aside from selling various artisan sourdoughs and soda breads, of which I am yet to sample; they also sell small muffins, cakes, pastries and sandwiches. My personal favourite and one that I have always been going back for is the Orange and Poppy Seed Bun- a soft and moist citrus bun, speckled with poppy seeds inside and out. I absolutely adore this bun; I have been to the bakery several times and I am yet to be inspired to purchase anything else. I just can’t seem to shake off this bun and this is nothing against any of their other breads, they look and smell wonderful, perhaps even better but this bun I just cannot get enough of. The taste is smple and really summons no sort of immense palatal euphoria, but it’s the unpretentious nature of this bun that makes it so good.

From beneath; the citrus syrup at the bottom and more poppy seeds.

So after a quick pit stop to Bowan Island after a night shift, I took some of these buns home to enjoy for breakfast. It was nice to be able to sit down and savour every bite with a hot cup of tea. I have this ritual of eating the buns where I first take a few bites off the top, and then proceed to unravel the bun eating the fluffy seed-flecked interior. I leave the moist syrupy base for last as it's my favourite and slowly tear away small pieces making sure to relish every morsel. I could happily make this my morning ritual any day.

I also bought a Raspberry friand from the bakery although its presence was eclipsed by my adoration for the bun. Perhaps next visit I can expound on the other selections on offer at Bowan Island Bakery. But for now, the bun takes the spotlight.

Bowan Island Bakery
183 Victoria Rd
Drummoyne NSW 2047
Phone: (02) 9181 3524

Victoire Bakery, Balmain

If I were to establish a niche in the food market, bakeries would probably be my thing. I just love bakeries, for me the discovery of a new bakery is cause for sheer elation; it’s like a drug, addictive and insatiable. I am constantly on the hunt, eyes wandering and nose twitching to and fro, searching for evidence of rising dough and baking bread.

The smell of fresh bread baking, the sight of beautiful pastries displayed pristinely in glass cabinets and the sweet taste of satisfaction after the first bite. It is all these things that I truly savour about bakeries; there is just something tangible and sensual about them, perhaps because they are indeed such sensory places. They are places were you can engage each of your senses and in that engagement arises the pleasure of the experience.

The sight of buttery croissants, rich brioches and pain au chocolat; the sweet fragrance of mascarpone and strawberry rhubarb tarts, quiches and madeleines; the crumbly texture of crunchy palmiers or the crusty feel of freshly baked boules, batards and baguettes. A bakery is the height of sensory overload and it is master baker, Myriam Cordellier-Wever and her son Herman Wever who are responsible for setting out this banquet for your senses at Victoire Bakery.

Located in Balmain, it is undoubtedly one of Sydney’s best bakeries. Neil Perry and QANTAS seem to think so, as Victoire supply both Rockpool and QANTAS First Class with specially made sourdough breads. As I have ardently expressed before, Victoire is one of my favourite things about Balmain. I first fell in love with their chewy levain ficelles two years ago and most bread-loving individuals would agree that there is no one else in Sydney who can attain the same distinguishing balance of crustiness and sourness as that of Victoire’s sourdough.

A trip to Victoire Bakery after a relatively early departure from work allowed me to enjoy my treats at home just in time to watch the sun set from my backyard. I came home with a chocolate tart, a custard pastry, some madeleines and half a dozen sourdough rolls. The shop assistant warned me that the chocolate tart contained tangelo pieces and Grand Marnier; a combination which some people did not find too agreeable. I am not sure where this dislike came from because this tart was amazing, a beautiful balance of flavours mingling together to create a sensation in your mouth.

I decided I would behave myself and share the rest of my spoils; and as usual it was met with satisfied jubilation. The custard pastry was definitively eggy, although not sickeningly so. In every bite was the perfect amount of custard to pastry ratio, which made for every bite a pure joy.

Victoire Bakery is simply one of those places where a loyal following has been forged by consistently supplying patrons with excellent products. It has certainly kept me going back for more and I see no evidence of this patronage stopping anytime soon. If you are one of the few Sydney-siders who have yet to sample Victoire’s beautiful breads then I urge- you must not delay.

The store is small and intimate and allows you to get up close to the breads and pastries. The owners are friendly and inviting, and every so often you will see Myriam greeting passer-bys, exchanging stories with customers and playfully gooing and gaaing at their babies. Victoire also sell fine cheeses and gourmet pastas, and aside from the regular French boulangerie fare, you will find the occasional bread and butter pudding and flourless brownie. Whatever your taste, you will find something to enjoy from this quaint little bakery.

Victoire Bakery
285 Darling Street, Balmain
Phone: (02) 9818 5529

Pastries in the Park: More of Francois' Pastries

Three posts later, our gastronomic outing at Pyrmont still doesn't end. After a hearty lunch at Milk and Two, and coffee, tea and pastries at Francois’, we astonishingly still had room in our expanding bellies for some more dessert. The amount of food I was able to consume that day, would have been enough to feed an entire football team! People have heard of second breakfast, well this was second dessert. As I mentioned in my previous post, G and I each bought some more pastries after eating in at Francois’ Patisserie. We leisurely walked back down Harris St and moseyed on down to Pyrmont Point Park, to enjoy what was left of the afternoon.

The park was virtually empty except for a lone cyclist taking a breather and a couple of familles playing catch on the grass. Situated along the harbour, across from Balmain, Pyrmont Point Park gives you uninterrupted water views, where you’re able to spy both the Anzac and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. There is a boardwalk that meanders along the water and this is where G, the pastries and I walked down until we reached the end.

At the end of the boardwalk we came across an interesting piece of artwork/sculpture. The contraption consisted of seven large red ladders that were suspended over the water and would bob up and down with the tide. It was quite hypnotic to watch, seeingthe ladders move up and down and swivel around as it swayed with the water. We were enjoying the view and each other’s company so much that we almost forgot about the pastries. But luckily one of us remembered the poor little things in the paper bag just waiting to be devoured. The first was a Mini Pear and Ricotta Tart and the other was an Apple and Rhubarb Slice. Not being a rhubarb enthusiast, I opted for the pear and ricotta.

The Pear and Ricotta was smooth, sweet and buttery; it tickled my tastebuds. G, who had the Apple and Rhubarb stated that the rhubarb's tartness was offset perfectly by the sweetness of the apple; it was a perfect harmony of flavours.I cannot emphasise how good Francois’ pastries are. Each one is a delight to behold and even more so to consume. As one who loves her dessert, this place will be a staple.

Pirrama Rd; in the car on our traverse home. Fully satisfied and bellies happy, off we went into the sunset.

Francois Pastries
Unit 3, 35 Union St
Pyrmont, NSW 2009

Francois' Pastries, Pyrmont

After we liberally satisfied our appetites at Milk and Two, we decided to walk off the extra few pounds we put on over lunch to a pastry shop on Union St. The irony; I know! The five-minute leisurely stroll allowed us to justify eating pastries, not that eating pastries required much justification, not for me that is.

The walk to the pastry shop also allowed us to bask in the sun-drenched streets of Pyrmont, which was surprisingly serene compared to the rest of the city. There is a small portion of Union St, in the Pyrmont Town Square, that somewhat reminds me of the book Playing Beatie Bow. The surrounding buildings still bear the Victorian sandstone facades, thick wooden doors and blackened chimneys protruding from their rooftops. And although the square has been revamped it still carries the mood of this era.

This charming lane brought us to Francois’ Pastries. The patisserie is quite small, with only six small coffee tables. The corner extrance led us inside to a glass counter that was brimming with all sorts of cakes, tarts and breads from top to bottom, left to right. The mini tarts and slices were on the left while the bigger cakes and savouries were on the right. There were so many things for your perusal, and so much gastronomic possibilities to be had, that just deciding what to have seemed like a rather overwhelming prospect.

After some time inspecting the counters we decided on the Mini Amandine Tart and the Mini Strawberry Tart. We thought that the mini tarts would be the way to go as the portions were managable. To go with our pastries G opted to have a large cappuccino, which he says is easily one of the best cups of coffee he has ever had. Also at $2.40, it was an absolute jaw-dropping bargain. I decided on the Rose Grey Tea; simply an Earl Grey Tea with rose infusions, which was refreshing and light.

The amandine tart was blissful. I have only tasted one other to rival this amandine and that was by Serge Dansereau of the Bather’s Pavilion, which was to my memory topped with mascarpone cream and macerated berries. The strawberry tart was also perfection, to say the least. The custard beneath the towering strawberries was as smooth as silk, and the crust was just the perfect buttery texture.

Aside from pastries Francois also sell quiches, pies and a variety of fruit and vegetable salads. But the pastries here are a standout, and with their extensive range you are left wanting more, and indeed we were. We ordered another tart each, to take away for later.

It is definitely worth the return trip to sample their savouries. They had already run out of pies when we arrived late afternoon, but there are always a generous amount of sweets available. There are tarts, slices, crumbles and éclairs in every possible flavour; definitely enough to satisfy the desires of any Francophile.

Francois Pastries
Unit 3, 53 Union St
Pyrmont, NSW 2009
Phone: (02) 9660 9083

Le Gerbe d'Or, Paddington

There's something to be said about discovering little gems in the city for yourself. No guide book, no gourmet food magazine, no Sydney Eats publication, just pure luck. Finding this bakery was one such occasion. Tucked away in the back of Paddington, just metres away from the busy thoroughfare that is Five Ways is the French boulangerie/patisserie La Gerbe d'Or. The master baker here is Franck Francois, who for 24 years has been supplying Sydney with French delights, unbeknownst to me. This man has literally been baking my entire lifespan and as one that is terrified by yeast, he immediately warrants my respect.

I’ve never been to France (yet), however I imagine that La Gerbe d'Or is what your local French boulangerie or patisserie would look like. With pastries and cakes displayed in the front window for passer-bys to ogle, brioches and financiers behind the glass counter as you enter and fougasse and ficelles sitting prettily in woven baskets behind. It's nice to see that Francois himself is working the counter and the banter between he and the customers is familiar and welcoming. Step into his bakery and you feel its warmth and friendliness, it’s like coming home.

When I did leave, in my clutches were three brioches, a fruit tart filled with soft French custard in a shortbread base and a dozen buttery almond fingers. The fruit tart was magnificent to behold and even more so to eat. The custard was not too rich and did not overpower the sweetness of the shortbread and the fruit. The brioches were buttery and thick, just the way I like, and the aroma of the almond fingers infused my car on the ride home. This was definitely a feast for ones senses.

La Gerbe d’Or also sell interesting savouries like Pate de Pantin and Rillettes de Canard for takeaway and an early morning breakfast there is almost mandatory. I hear the Eggs Benedict are the choice order. The website also adds that Francois’ specialty is the Citron Tart, which I am yet to try and there are so many other items yet to savour that I am definitely planning a second, third and fourth visit to this endearing little bakery. Truly a fantastic find.

La Gerbe d'Or
255 Glenmore Rd
Paddington
Phone (02) 9331 1070
(closed Mondays)

Cupcake Your World: Part Two

As the name of this blog suggests I am a fan of all things that evoke a sense of nostalgia towards childhood. In NYC this type of nostalgia has hit cult status with the springing up of several cutesy, vintage style bakeries, mostly selling cupcakes and “like-how-nana-used-to-make” style cakes. Namely establishments like Magnolia Bakery, Billy’s Bakery, Buttercup Bakeshop and Sugar Sweet Sunshine all have contributed to the cupcaking of New York. For me it showed that people still do long for things old-fashioned and homemade, and it’s nice to see that these memories can be revisited.

This full-blown cupcake fanaticism has yet to reach Sydney, if ever it does. But just the thought of going to a bakery and queueing for hours to buy something that could easily be made at home seems conflicting. For me most of the appeal comes out of making things myself, it feels more rewarding that way. But don't get me wrong I still enjoy the odd visit to Cupcakes on Pitt; and G can vouch for the sheer light-headedness I feel upon entering that shop and seeing the selection of cupcakes on offer.

In saying this is, I made a visit to another cute cupcake shop called My Little Cupcake in Neutral Bay. They first grabbed my attention at last year's Spring Picnic with their bright pastel stand and the intoxicating aroma of vanilla wafting from it.

The shop is nestled amongst the residences on Ben Boyd Rd, so it is easy to overlook. After driving by it several times, I decided to just park my car and continue my search on foot. Not long, I catch sight of a cute striped awning looming in the distance and I wondered if that was it. I was right, the striped awning led me into a charming vintage style shop filled with shabby chic furniture and homewares. Most of the ceramic wares were from the irresistible Robert Gordon collection.

The cupcakes, further into the store were displayed neatly behind a glass counter. The selection isn’t as extensive as that of Cupcakes on Pitt. My Little Cupcake specialises in Vanilla Cupcakes with Vanilla Buttercream frosting. The only differences in the cupcakes are their size and colour. They come in an array of pastel colours topped with an edible sugar flower and you can choose from mini, small and large cupcakes. They also limit over the counter orders to a dozen, however you can pre-order if you want more.

Although the flavours at M.L.C. are limited (to one) I much prefer their cupcakes to the ones at C.O.P. The M.L.C cupcakes are different as that the cakes are a lot denser and buttery; and also their vanilla buttercream frosting is much thicker and sweeter. I think for me the appeal comes mostly from their cute and delicate appearance and their buttery vanilla taste. I

imagine these cupcakes to be somewhat similar to the Magnolia and Billy’s Bakery- Vanilla, Vanilla cupcakes. If Sydney were to have a cupcake craze to match that of New York City's these two niche establishments would be its frontrunners.

My Little Cupcake
62 Ben Boyd Rd,
Neutral Bay
Phone: (02) 9909 3908
(closed Monday and Sunday)

Cupcake Your World: Part One

To date, I have probably visited Cupcakes on Pitt about six times. Two of those six times have been on a weekend and regrettably the shop was closed. Also those two times that I happened to frequent the closed shop, G had been with me. Although not a cupcake enthusiast, both those times he was not only disappointed by the “no-cupcake” fiasco but also by the fact that we had walked so eagerly all the way from Haymarket to Pitt St only to find the shop closed.

So after two failed attempts at sampling cupcakes G was determined and we came back for our third time together, a little disillusioned but nonetheless hopeful. Would they be open this time? Well today was in fact a weekday so I was quite certain they were open, as my successful visits in the past were on weekdays.

When we arrived it certainly did not disappoint, the shop front was filled with their usual array of goodies. Chocolate, Cherry, Peppermint, Vanilla, Strawberry, White Chocolate, Cookies and Cream, Honeycomb, Jaffa, Tiramisu, Passionfruit and Lemon Meringue cupcakes were all sitting ever so prettily in the window.

As a coffee lover G opted for the Tiramisu and I, having already tried many of their other exotic flavours opted for classic Vanilla. We also picked up a Lemon Meringue and a Strawberry to share with family members we were seeing later that afternoon. The cake was moist and spongy and the frosting light and not overly sweet. G’s curiosity for these cupcakes had finally been satiated. He and I are still partial to my own homemade cupcakes; biased I know, but at $3.50 a cupcake the effort of making them yourself is still well worth it. However it's nice to be able to get cupcakes while on the go. I asked the ladies working there if it was all right to take photographs of their lovely cupcakes and they happily consented. Apparently most carry out guerilla-style photography; running up to the shop front quickly snapping away at the cupcakes and then just dashing off. They said that they actually don’t mind people taking photographs of the cupcakes, although most people don’t ask. I’m glad I asked.

We ate our cupcakes while sitting in the small amphitheatre in Ewenton Park, Balmain admiring the view. I love Sydney.

Cupcakes on Pitt
Shop 2, 323 Pitt St, Sydney

(currently not open weekends)